Confeitaria Colombo Rio: A Sweet Stop in a Historic Café
We went to Confeitaria Colombo in central Rio de Janeiro for a sweet break and ordered a slice of chocolate-covered Pão de Mel. Yet the room stayed with us as much as the dessert: a high ceiling, stained glass and enormous facing mirrors that made it difficult to tell where the dining room ended.
A historic café in Rio’s old centre
We stopped at Colombo towards the end of our Rio trip. Founded in 1894, the confectionery occupies its historic address on Rua Gonçalves Dias. Some cities have an old café that feels closely tied to the city itself; this was where we found that feeling in Rio.
Before entering, we noticed the glass-fronted displays: cups, plates and glassware framed by dark wood. It did not feel like somewhere recently decorated to look old. That sense of a long history continued once we stepped inside.
First the queue, then the ceiling
The tables were full when we arrived. We joined the queue at the entrance and waited for one to become available. Leave some room in your itinerary for that possibility; on our visit, we could not walk straight in and sit down.
The room rises high above the tables. A mezzanine runs around it, with coloured stained glass overhead. Our eyes went up first, then across the walls. Between the marble tables, carved wood and glass-fronted cabinets, there was plenty to look at.
Mirrors that seem to keep the room going
The huge mirrors on the side walls made the strongest impression. Set in dark, carved wooden frames, they reflect one another, repeating the tables, lights and people far into the distance. The already spacious room seems larger still.
It reminded us of the moment when you look at an infinity pool and cannot quite see where the water ends. Here, the effect comes from mirrors. You also see yourself within those reflections. Sitting at a table and looking around became part of the visit in its own right.
We came for brigadeiro and chose Pão de Mel
Our original intention was to have brigadeiro, the Brazilian chocolate sweet. Ozan, our companion on the food stops in Brazil, pointed out that we had already tried it and suggested Pão de Mel instead. We changed our order and asked for a slice and a drink.
The Pão de Mel that arrived was a layered slice covered in chocolate. In the cut face we could see dark cake, caramel-coloured filling and a lighter layer above it, with small decorations on top.
This was a short sweet stop, not a tasting of the entire pastry counter. We ate our slice, had our drink and spent time taking in the room. When we think back to Colombo, the table and the mirrors around us come to mind before any detailed judgement of the cake.
Our recommendation
The reason to make time for Colombo is to sit in that historic room: a marble table, a look up at the stained glass and a forkful of dessert between glances around the hall. We waited to get in, but once seated we felt that this was a place with a character of its own.
If historic cafés and confectioneries interest you, this is a worthwhile break during a day in Centro. For current prices and choices, check Colombo’s official website. Our Rio food guide brings together the other stops from the trip.
Where is Confeitaria Colombo?
Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, BrazilGet directions ↗ · Official website ↗
This visit was to the historic Centro location. Check its current opening hours and menu before going, and allow time in case you need to wait for a table.
Questions before you go
Which Colombo location did we visit?
The historic confectionery at Rua Gonçalves Dias 32 in Centro, Rio de Janeiro.
Can you visit without sitting at a table?
We visited as seated customers and queued at the entrance. Ask the staff about the current arrangements for takeaway purchases or simply looking inside.
Did we eat brigadeiro here?
Not on this visit. We chose Pão de Mel on Ozan’s suggestion, having already tried brigadeiro elsewhere during the Brazil trip.
More from our Brazil trip
Editor’s note
Adapted from our own Colombo visit on Harbiyiyorum, using our original photographs and observations. This account concerns the slice we ordered and the room we experienced, rather than every item on the menu.
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